Your hair\u2019s texture plays a major role in how you approach bleaching. You might already know which category you fall into (between fine, medium, and coarse), but if not, Norris offers this guidepost: \u201dThink of a strip of sewing string. If your individual hair strands are thinner than string then your hair is fine textured. If it\u2019s equal to the thickness of the string then you have medium texture, and if it\u2019s thicker then you have coarse hair.\u201d<\/p>
Next, you need to consider your hair\u2019s color\u2014it\u2019s natural<\/i> color, that is, rather than its current (possibly dyed) color. In this instance, you only need to rate it as light, medium, or dark, says Norris. \u201cWere you very light blonde as a baby? If yes, then you probably have light hair. Were you a light brunette as a baby? You\u2019re probably within the medium category, and so on.\u201d She also has good news for the light-headed folk. \u201cIf you have light hair naturally, it\u2019s going to be an easier process than if you have dark hair naturally.\u201d<\/p>
Third is the length. This is only important in terms of getting an even-toned bleaching, and the shorter your hair is, the better odds you fare. \u201cIf your hair is past your shoulders, the ends of your hair may not \u2018lift\u2019 as light as desired,\u201d Norris says. \u201cThat\u2019s because it takes a long time for heat to travel down to your ends.\u201d This one might be a deterrent for long-haired people approaching a DIY job, but more than anything, it\u2019s an important consideration to take.<\/p>
With your hair\u2019s length, natural color, and texture in mind, you can move on to the next steps.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
You\u2019ll want an extra set of hands and eyeballs on the day. Pick someone you can trust, and who has perhaps been through this process (literally, it\u2019s called \u201cprocessing\u201d) before. \u201cThey can reach certain areas in the back of your head that you can\u2019t see, and they\u2019re able to see from a bird\u2019s eye view if everything is lifting evenly,\u201d Norris says. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Here are all of the necessary supplies for a DIY hair bleaching, according to Norris. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
No, not Clorox. This is the lightener itself, but is not a standalone product for this process. Norris recommends Wella Blondor Multi Blonde Powder<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n This allows for the cuticle of your hair to open up and \u201cabsorb\/take\u201d the color. It\u2019s what contains hydrogen peroxide. This is where your hair\u2019s natural texture and color play a factor, since the developer has a scale that factors in these variables. Here is Norris\u2019 cheat sheet to simplify things: If you have light-medium hair color and it\u2019s fine-medium textured, then you\u2019ll need a 20 Volume and a 30 Volume. If you have medium-dark hair and it\u2019s medium-coarse textured, then you\u2019ll need a 30 Volume and a 40 Volume. The reason for the changes in developer is because a stronger developer is needed on thicker\/darker hair so that the lightener can penetrate the hair\u2019s cuticle and lift the color. As for brands, she prefers either Wella or its own Wella Color Charm brand. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Something you can compromise during the process, and remove when it\u2019s time to rinse. (And likely toss out afterwards, or save for future touch-ups.) <\/p>\n\n\n\n 4 large clips.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Norris suggests two color-safe mixing bowls, two color application brushes, and one comb.<\/p>\n\n\n\n You\u2019ll wrap this around your head, Norris says, to trap in heat so that the lightener keeps lifting.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Pick something sulfate and paraben free<\/a>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n You can\u2019t do this process with dirty, greasy, or product-filled hair. \u201cBe sure there\u2019s no hairspray residue or excessive oil build-up, as this will slow down the lifting process,\u201d Norris adds. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Here, Norris walks through the true step-by-step process, now that you\u2019ve got all your supplies at the ready:<\/p>\n\n\n\n 1. Part your hair into 4 sections:<\/b> Do this with a comb. Make a vertical line down the center of your head between your eyebrows, and drag that line to the back of your head to your neck. Then, part a horizontal line from the top of your left ear, and drag it over to the top of your right ear. Clip these sections with your hair clips to keep them separated.<\/p> 2. Mix your lightener: <\/b>If you have previously lightened hair, you should not do this second step, Norris warns. Applying bleach to already lightened hair can cause breakage. So, proceed if you are starting with a natural or darkened base.\u00a0<\/p> Use an equal amount of lightener as you do developer. (Norris suggests using a food-measuring scale, if you\u2019ve got one.) You will use your two mixing bowls for this step. The first bowl will be for your roots (the first 1\u201d of the hair from your scalp), and the second bowl will be for the rest of your hair.<\/p> 3. For the roots, use the lower developer:<\/b> Remember how you stocked up on two different types of developer? The bowl for your roots will be the lower developer you grabbed (either the 20 or the 30 depending on your natural hair\u2019s lightness). Apply the product at the first inch throughout each of the 4 sections using fine enough sections that you could see through well enough to read a book.<\/p> 4. Mix up the second bowl: <\/b>After the root application, you\u2019ll move on to the darker of your two developers (either the 30 or 40 depending on your hair color level). You will apply this in sections as fine as you did previously (thin enough to see through and read a book). This ensures an even saturation, Norris notes.<\/p> 5. Let the lightener process for 30-50 minutes: <\/b>Your hair\u2019s color will determine processing time. Light hair requires less time, whereas medium to dark hair requires more time. Use the 30-50 minute scale according to that color grade.\u00a0<\/p> 6. Check up on it: <\/b>After 30 minutes, using the back of your comb, press a little bit of the product away from the scalp. If the color is a pale yellow, like the inside of a banana, then you\u2019re ready to rinse. If it\u2019s darker, then add 10-20 minutes for more processing.<\/p> 7. Perform a strand test:<\/b> Pull a small section of the ends (lightly!), and see if they stretch. If the strands are strong then the hair\u2019s integrity is intact. If the ends stretch like a rubber band, then the bonds have been broken and your hair is very weak. If that\u2019s the case, shampoo out immediately.<\/p>\n\n\n\n That hair won\u2019t stay toned and balanced on its own. Maintaining bleach-blonde hair is a delicate balance, given all of the variables that can lead to yellow or brassy tones. Here are the products you should have ready.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Assuming everything went as planned, Norris says you should do a root touch up every 4-5 weeks. And in line with not re-lightening anything previously bleached, you must only<\/i> apply this lightener to the new growth, You risk severe breakage otherwise.<\/p>\n\n\n\n \u201cIf things don\u2019t go your way, don\u2019t hesitate to make a salon appointment,\u201d Norris advises. \u201cProfessional hair stylists have a vast knowledge in how to safely lighten your hair without compromising its integrity. So if something doesn\u2019t go right during the DIY project, then they\u2019ll know how to fix it.\u201d\u00a0<\/p> Not to mention, even if you follow these steps, there may be an unforeseen variable that impacts your results. Things like hair history, amount of grey, previous dyes\/lightens, certain medications, mineral deposits in the water\u2026these can all impact the end result. Have your salon on standby for a fix, just in case you need it.<\/p>\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" What could go wrong?<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":29,"featured_media":29839,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[25,382],"tags":[303,306,304,305,479],"class_list":["post-19173","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-category-expert-advice","category-expert-tips","tag-color-bleach","tag-color-other","tag-color-permanent","tag-color-semi-permanent","tag-new"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nDeveloper<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
An old t-shirt<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Hair clips for sectioning<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
The tools<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Plastic bag<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Shampoo & conditioner<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Start with clean hair<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
How to bleach your hair<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Have a maintenance plan<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Touch up the roots<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
It\u2019s never too late to see a professional<\/h2>\n\n\n\n