What are Retinoids? A Complete Guide to Types, Uses, and Results 

Retinoids are a class of naturally occurring and synthetic chemicals derived from vitamin A. Natural retinoids help keep your eyes, bones, immune system, and skin healthy.

There are several types of synthetic retinoids; here we’ll focus on over-the-counter topical retinoids, those designed for otherwise healthy skin. When used correctly, retinoids can visibly improve your skin’s appearance: fine lines are smaller, tone is more even, and elasticity is restored.

However, retinoids are so potent that they can easily cause irritation when first applied. Knowing how to get started can help reduce the risk of inflammation.

Types of Retinoids: Retinol vs. Retinaldehyde vs. Esters

So how does this seemingly miraculous process work? Let’s start with the key ingredient: retinoic acid. This is the compound that, when in contact with skin cells, stimulates their turnover. As a result, dead skin is shed more quickly and new skin cells grow in their place. 

Retinol

Retinoic acid is the result of two chemical transformations. Retinol is exposed to an enzyme, thereby becoming retinaldehyde (sometimes called retinal), which itself becomes retinoic acid through a similar process. 

Imagine the process that turns milk into cheese: milk is mixed with an enzyme, causing the milk to become curds and whey. The whey is discarded and the curds are processed further, eventually becoming cheese. The process is similar with retinoids: retinol becomes retinaldehyde, then is further transformed into retinoic acid.

In the same way that cheese is more flavorful than milk, retinoic acid is about ten times as potent as retinol. This can be too much of a good thing: many people experience skin dryness, flaking, and irritation when applying retinoic acid.

Over-the-counter retinols and retinaldehydes are available everywhere at a range of strengths and price points. Most retinoic acid products are used to treat more serious skin conditions and are only available by prescription.

Bakuchiol Oil and Retinoic Acid Esters

In the field of skin wellness, the newest arrivals are bakuchiol oil and retinoic acid esters. 

Bakuchiol oil is extracted from the seeds of the babchi plant. Ayurvedic and traditional Chinese medicine practitioners use it to treat skin disorders. It has the same benefits as retinol, with fewer side effects. Many skincare brands are combining bakuchiol oil with their retinol serums.

Retinoic acid esters sit somewhere between retinol and retinoic acid in terms of strength. Just like other retinoids, they promote skin cell turnover and fight free radicals. The benefits of esters lies in their ability to convert to retinol and retinoic acid when exposed to skin, providing immediate as well as delayed effects.

What Retinoids Do for Your Skin (Collagen, Texture, and Tone)

What are retinoids’ benefits? Applying retinoids to your skin will cause two things to happen: first, skin cell turnover will increase; and second, your body will produce more collagen. Both effects contribute to healthier, brighter skin. In terms of seeing results, “most people begin noticing a smoother texture within 6–12 weeks. Improving fine lines and skin elasticity typically takes at least 3-6 months of consistent use” says Dr. Toral, a board certified dermatologist.

Cell Turnover for Even and Blemish-Free Skin

Applying retinoids to your skin causes it to shed dead skin cells and boosts the production of new skin cells. As a result, your skin looks fresh and new, with fewer dark spots and uneven pigmentation, and reduced fine lines.

In addition to shedding dead skin cells, retinoids inhibit the production of sebum. While sebum is necessary to skin health, it can clog pores when mixed with dead skin cells, causing breakouts. Less sebum means fewer pimples and more even and luminous skin.

Collagen Production for Fine Lines and Plump Skin

Every day, your skin is exposed to harmful elements. Excessive sun exposure and air pollution cause your skin to produce free radicals that can hurt your skin cells. Even lack of sleep and stress can be bad for your skin. The free radicals inhibit your body’s ability to produce collagen and elastin, the things that give your skin its plumpness and elasticity.

Does retinol thin the skin?

“Retinol doesn’t thin the skin. In fact, it actually improves skin thickness and elasticity by boosting collagen over time.” says Dr. Toral. When applied to skin, retinoic acid prevents free radicals from inhibiting collagen production. Thickening the skin and helping reduce the appearance of fine lines.

Mastering the Start: Tips for Minimizing Retinoid Irritation

There is no doubt that retinoids are effective in reducing fine lines, evening skin tone, and reducing breakouts. But as great as retinoids are, misusing them can lead to dry skin and irritation. Here’s how to avoid the harmful effects of retinoids.

Start low and slow

If you’ve never used retinoids before, giving your skin plenty of time to adjust is key in avoiding flaking and irritation. Choose a low-concentration retinol serum and wait one week between your first and second applications. You can slowly increase how often you use the serum, but don’t be afraid to take a step back at the first sign of irritation, giving your skin plenty of time to recover.

Use the sandwich method

New retinol users and those with dry and sensitive skin, might find the sandwich method to help fight flaking and irritation. By applying moisturizer to your skin before and after using a retinol serum, you’re locking moisture into your skin cells, helping fight dryness.

Avoid sun exposure and other acne-fighting products

If at all possible, it’s best to stay out of the sun after applying retinoids, since they can increase your sensitivity to sunlight. Ideally, use your retinol serum during your night-time skincare routine. 

On nights that you apply retinol, avoid using other products with active ingredients like salicylic acid, since they can harm your skin. 

Frequently Asked Questions

Is the “retinoid purge” normal, and how long does it last?

The “retinoid purge” is the name for the dry patches, acne breakouts, and other skin ailments that some people experience when first starting to use retinoids. The purge is more common for those using prescription-strength or high-concentration retinoids. You can expect your skin to clear up in two to three weeks.

Can I use a retinoid and a Vitamin C serum in the same routine?

Retinoids and vitamin C are two of the most effective products in promoting glowing, healthy skin. In fact, they work in complement with each other, with vitamin C helping to neutralize free radicals and retinoids promoting collagen production. So yes, you can absolutely use them together!

How much retinoid product should I apply?

A pea-sized amount, spread evenly over the whole face, is all you need for your product to work. If you’re just getting started with retinoids, we recommend applying it once a week at first, and then more often as your skin adapts.

When is the best time of day to apply retinoids?

Using retinoids increases your skin’s sensitivity to sunlight, so it’s best to apply them during your evening skincare routine. If you apply retinoids during the day, be sure to follow it up with SPF 30 sunblock.

What are the best tips for new retinoid users?

Dr. Toral: Use retinoids in your night time skincare routine, and make sure to apply SPF during the day. Start slow to prevent irritation, and stay consistent to repeat its benefits.